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Apollonía - Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná - Agios Andréas |
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Evaluation:
this hike leads you through the magnificent interior of the island of Sífnos, an interior which you can also explore on the hikes to Vathy.
In addition, though, during the second part of the hikes, you will be
able to admire some exceptional views, as well as the unique location of
Agios Andréas. This hike definitely deserves an evaluation of ***! Estimated
time: this
is another hike for a fairly long day; to find a nice picnic spot you
might take the turn to Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná. Make sure to take enough
water with you, because there is no well, nor an opportunity to swim on
the way... Route
description:
[A large part of this route is also described in the hike Apollonía -
Vathý via the well of Kalamítsi (for the part until you have passed Taxiárchis tis Skáfis) and in the hike
Apollonía-Vathý via the monastery of Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná (for the part till Agios
Nikólaos
T' Aeriná).] The
bus from Kamáres stops on the Platia Iroöon (the Square of Heroes),
where you can relax for a while on a bench in the shade. On this square
you will find the museum of folklore (closed on Sunday mornings), the
war monument and the post office. The pedestrian street to
Katavatí begins on the right of the square, in between the bar I Gonía
and
a pay phone. The pedestrian street to Artemónas
begins in between the little store To Flaráki and the bar Lákis. Two hikes by
themselves are to walk up and down from Apollonía to Katavatí and to
Artemónas, while enjoying all of the beautiful churches and all of the
picturesque spots. But in fact, you can as well explore these streets on
the hikes from Apollonía to Vathý and to the Agios Simeoón. So, for the trail
to Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná and Vathy you take the very picturesque
street to Katavatí, in between the bar I Gonía and a pay phone.
After some ten metres this street curves to the right and it continues
past the beautiful churches of Stavrós and Taxiárchoon. About five
minutes later you get to the Mitrópoli, the main church.
The
little church of Stavrós, on the way to Katavati. You then go
straight, up the long staircase, and after another five minutes you get
to the gymnásio, the secondary school. You continue up this street, you
walk on the right hand side of a curve in the asphalt road for a couple
of metres, going further towards Katavatí (sign-post). On the right you
pass the street which leads to a church with a white dome and you walk
past the hotel Galíni. You continue to go up slightly (you pass another
path off the right) until you have passed another little white church
with a white dome, the Panagia Angeloktisti – there is a beautiful
sarcophagus in front of this church. The street goes further down for a
little while, but then you have to take a street off the right with a
sign-post to the Profítis Ilías – some fifteen minutes after your
departure. You then follow
the broad concrete path. You pass a little concrete road on the left, an
earth path again on the left, and a little further another earth path on
the right. The trail then turns into a typical donkey path. It runs in
between walls and after a couple of minutes it reaches the bypass around
Apollonía. You cross this road, slightly going to the right, and there
you will find the beautiful monopáti with a big sign the Profítis Ilías
and Mávro Chorió. It has now been almost 20 minutes since you have left
Apollonía. You take this path, with first goes up along a marvellous paved staircase for about five minutes – you just have to ignore the little side roads. Afterwards, the trail continues rather flatly. After ten minutes you pass a path which goes up to the left to Agii Anárgyri, and after some fifteen minutes - you are already right into the magnificent interior Sífnos – you get to the path which goes up to the right towards the Profítis Ilías. At this point you cannot yet see the monastery on the top of the mountain. Today, you don't
have enough time to climb to the top, and
you go straight, towards the left. The path then continues through a
small gorge and after some three-four minutes you get to a kind of rocky
plateau – in front of you you will see the corner of a wall. On the
opposite hill you can distinguish the beautiful church of Agios Eustáthios. [At this point
there is a path off the left towards the south; this is an other and
shorter possibility to visit the interesting site of Agios Andréas and
to return to Apollonía – this route is described in the two
alternative hikes Apollonía - Agios Andréas .] In order to go to
Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná though, you have to follow the main path to
the right. You keep thus to the right hand side of the wall and you go
up slightly (you will find a sign and there is also an old indication
for this hike: a red cross in a square with dotted lines). The trail is
still very clear, it curves to the right, following the valley and very
soon you will see some ruins and also the beautiful old church of Taxiárchis
tis Skáfis in front of you.
Taxiárchis
tis Skáfis, on the way from Apollonía to Vathý.
Before the church
you pass a little road off the left.
You then walk on the right hand side of a palm tree and you
cannot help thinking: “Where does this tree come from?”. A staircase
on the right leads towards the monastery. This is a very pleasant place
to have some rest: the door is often open, there are some wall paintings
behind the ikonóstasis, and there is a strong smell of incense. The actual monopáti runs underneath the monastery and during the next 20 minutes it
goes up gradually, sometimes like a staircase. Often, the path is narrow,
in between a wall on the left and the rock on the right – in Summer
time this is really a very hot spot! After some eight minutes you
descend for a little while into a green valley, on the right hand side
you have a nice view on the Profítis Ilías and the monastery. A little
further, though, the trail goes up again steeply. Twenty minutes after
Taxiárchis you will thus get to a platform with a lot of bushes. Just
before this platform there is even some shade underneath a couple of
trees – you better take advantage of this! Immediately after
you get to the end of the wall and on the open platform, there is a
junction: you DO NOT take the broad path straight ahead, but you go left,
more or less along a wall (there are blue dots). After some three
minutes there is another junction and at this point you have to watch
out - to the
right, there is a path going to Vathý via the Kalamítsi-well. |
You
continue, more or less flatly, on this upper path for another five
minutes. You walk like on a balcony and you can see the chapel of Agios
Ioánnis moving along underneath. Exactly above this chapel the path
descends somewhat, but further on it goes up again, straight in southern
direction. At this point you lose sight of the lower trail, which
descends to Agios Ioánnis. To the right, deep down and on the left of
the chapel, you can see the deep Kalimítsi-valley.
Another five minutes later you see a deep gorge on the slope to the
right. On the opposite side there is a flat hill with a little pillar on
top of it. By walking further on you approach a large wall straight
ahead: 50 metres before this wall there is a vague path off the right,
which you ignore. Later on, there is a clear junction: to the right, in
western direction, there is a path with red dots and red-brownish
stripes. This is yet another trail going to Vathý, which, further on,
joins the path from the Kalamítsi-valley to Vathý. However,
in order to pass Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná, you have to go straight. You
walk on the right hand side of a wall (which surrounds a couple of large
fields with two white buildings) and you follow this wall for about four
to five minutes (notice the orange-red dots). By continuing in this way
you get to a rocky plateau and at this point you have to watch out again:
you have to follow the path along the wall until you have turned towards
the south east and until you see red arrows on a three-forked junction.
The bay of Vathý. You can now see
the path more clearly again; it goes in western direction and Vathý
remains to the left of you. After a couple of minutes, by following the
red arrows and dots, you reach the picturesque and very white monastery
of Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná. The nickname of this monastery refers to
the fact that this spot is often very windy.
The beautiful monastery of Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná. It is perfect to have your picnic on this refreshing place. After some rest, you return to the three forked-junction near the wall surrounding a large field with two small white buildings.] At
this point, you continue on the path along the wall in south eastern
direction. Already after a couple of minutes, though, you have to watch
out: there goes a path off the right, more or less flat and on the right
of the hill, heading south. This – otherwise really beautiful – path
gets to the white church of Panagía tou Kariávli after about 20 minutes.
This is almost the only trail that is not indicated on the map of John
Birkett-Smith! When you get to
the edge you will again see the bay of Vathý; you now go a little more
to the left, towards some walls higher up on the hill. The trail (with
orange-red dots) goes on the left hand side of the first circular wall
and higher up it goes on the right of the second wall – you still have
a beautiful view on Vathý and on the islands in the distance. After
about seven minutes you cross the ridge of the hill amidst green bushes:
Vathý disappears and at the same moment you will get a nice view over
Platís Gialós, Folégandros and Síkinos. The trail continues in front of
you (now with blue dots) straight towards Agios Andréas. You
now walk on a wonderful trail with a magnificent view on the changing
coast line: Platís Gialós from two or three different sides, the
monastery of Taxiárchis at the new road to Vathý, and the fortress of
Panagía tou Vounoú on the left of the bay of Platís Gialós. After about
twenty minutes and after you have opened two gates you will arrive at
the little chapel of Agia Ekateríni. Immediately
after the second gate the road splits up: the path on the right also
goes in the right direction, but you have to take a left now. The rocky
path goes up gradually on a green slope, to the left of a hill with a
pyramid of rocks on top. Some 6-7 minutes later you will discover
another great panorama: the hill of Agios Andréas with behind it the
village of Kástro in the distance. Further to the right you can
distinguish the bay of Fáros. The trail now goes to the right of the
wall which surrounds the fields in the valley before the hill of Agios
Andréas. After another minute you get to a three-forked-road and there
you follow the wall to the left. You continue to walk along the wall
until you get another beautiful view on the village of Kástro after five
minutes – high up on the left you will see Agios Andréas. The trail
gets a little vague and it continues to go around the hill gradually. It
then descends slightly until you finally get to a staircase (with a sign
to Agios Andréas).
Agios
Andréas and in front the ruins from the bronze
age. On
the way back you have to descend on the staircase and then even further
past the junction, until you get to the road (after going down for about
20 minutes) - the altitude is now only 230 metres. The
best is then to follow the asphalt road for about 10 minutes till you
reach a junction: the road on the left leads to Kamáres, before the
crossing lies the little church of Firógia. You take the path going
straight, in between the two asphalt roads and between walls. Some five
minutes later you get to the first houses of Katavatí. At a crossing you
have to keep left and after about 15 minutes you arrive back on the bus
square of Apollonía.
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