Apollonía - Artemónas - Kástro - Fáros - Chryssopigí - Platýs Gialós |
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Evaluation: This wonderful hike combines a number of highlights of the island of Sífnos, an island with a lot of attractive aspects: the grand houses of Artemónas, the magnificent spot of the Panagía Pouláti, the nice little streets of Kástro, the small harbour of Fáros, the wonderfully situated monastery of Chryssopigí and the beautiful beach of Platýs Gialós. This hike is thus ideal for people who do not have a lot of time to explore Sífnos. Also, the trails, among which the descent to Panagía Pouláti and the great path between Kástro and Fáros, belong to the most beautiful of the island. This hike thus deserves the maximum evaluation of ****. Estimated time:
Walking the pedestrian street from Apollonía to Artemónas will only
cost you about 10 minutes and from there to the Panagía Pouláti takes
about half an hour. The trail along the rocky coast to Kástro takes
another 20 minutes – in Kástro you should obviously spend some time
visiting the village – also having lunch in the café-restaurant Astéri
is very pleasant. Route description: If you have already covered the walk from Apollonía to Artemónas, you can continue by bus to the platía of Artemónas. Today, we leave from the platía of Apollonia. In between the shop Tésseris Epochés and the bar Lákis you take the pedestrian road, which goes up like a staircase. You pass a couple of streets off the right and the left and you continue in the direction of a white dome. Do not forget, however, to visit the 18th century Panagía Ouranofóra, after about one minute, on the right of the street. This is a beautiful church with a very picturesque courtyard.
The quiet surroundings of the Panagía Ouranófora. You then go back to the main street, which you follow till you reach the white church after some minutes. The street continues to go straight and up, past hotel Petáli, until the main church of Artemónas with a blue dome. Past the mitrópoli you descend until you almost get to the road and then it goes up again. In this way, you enter the village of Artemónas, with its beautiful, majestic houses. At the Platía Chrysogélou (with a bust) you keep to the left and you continue to go up. You will then get to the Platía Artemónas, about ten minutes after your departure. The bus stop is a little further to the right. [If you have a little bit of time, you can first go straight ahead, in order to get to know a couple of wonderful corners of Artemónas. You then have to continue on the left-hand side of the very pleasant café Margaríta, past the beautiful school, situated in a green garden, and past two magnificent mansions, in the direction of the highest windmill. Past the second mansion you take a left, you pass the very nice church of Panagía tis Ammou (with a marvellous interior!), in the direction of the Panagía Kóchi with the blue dome.
The splendid ikonostási in the Panagía tis Ammou.
A marvellous icon of the Virgin in the Panagía tis Ammou. At the
Panagía Kóchi you can go back the way you came and at café Margaríta
you take a left to the bus square and the asphalt road.] In any case, you proceed in the direction of the bus stop, past the hotel Artemon, the pantopolío – where you might buy your supplies for the day – and Radio Sífnos. After 2-3 minutes you take the first concrete street on the left (hiking sign + [1]. The walk will be marked by [1] until Kástro.
The hiking sign of walk [1] in Artemónas. You follow this street until you get to the lovely square
of A. Verníkou. Just before the square you take the small street off
the left and slightly further you take the first street on the right. In
this way, you go down into a nice little valley alongside a small pine
forest – which is rather unique on the Cycladic islands. You then
follow the main street again, going up. At the corner of an old, tall
wall, you take a small concrete street off the left. At this point, you
should have a look around you: high in front of you are the mills and
far away, above Apollonía you can see the monasteries of the Profítis
Ilías and of Agios Andréas.
The beautiful Panagía Pouláti. Further down, the
sign "PARALIA" (beach) points to a staircase, which descends
to the wonderful, rocky beach of Dialiskári – the staircase consists
of 170 steps and all the way you walk alongside reed and streaming water
(on the 4th of June 2006). At the beach it is great to swim
and dive for some a little while, provided that there is not too much
wind. After this refreshing break you go back the way you came (up the
staircase) and at the main trail you go left in the direction of Kástro. You follow this
beautiful monopáti, high above the rocky coast, for some 15-16 minutes,
until you arrive above the water treatment station. You get to the
gravel road for a short while, but very soon you can continue on the
trail – as a result of the wet winters of the years 2003-2004 there
are a couple of caving ins, however. After 19 minutes all together you
reach the small asphalt road and 2 minutes later you get to the last
mill on the main road. Almost immediately, you find the ancient entrance
to the town of Kástro on the left. A little further, you can go left
and thus make a circuit of the kástro, but you can also continue
straight ahead to the centre of this ancient and truly beautiful little
town – in this way you reach the restaurant Astéri or Star after
about 4 minutes. On the terrace you can have a very nice lunch – you
should try the 'pikilía' (some little snacks) with the tirokeftédes
(cheese balls), the saganáki (fried cheese) and the melitzanosaláta (a
salad of aubergines). While having lunch you can admire the landscape:
on the right the mills of Artemónas, where you departed, above the low
hill the summit of the Profítis Ilías, the blue dome of the church of
Exámbela in the middle, then the top of Agios Andréas and in front of
you the entire valley of Erkíes, with on its left-hand side the trail
you will follow later today.
The nice valley of Erkíes (a view from Kástro). |
After lunch you can still stroll around the beautiful little streets of Kástro. Also the ring road is very interesting.
One of the nice streets in Kástro. You then return to
the other entrance of Kástro, where you can find the parking place and
the bus stop (at the nice bar To Konáki). Over here you take the modern
staircase down (signpost "Serália"); after a few minutes you
cross the asphalt road and straight ahead you continue going down.
Some minutes later you get to a dry bed of a river, which you cross,
with on the right a renovated farm. Straight across you find the
beautiful old staircase, going up on the opposite slope. For the next 10
minutes you climb continuously, but after 2 minutes already there is a
trail off the left to Fáros (see the hike Fáros-Kástro); you take a
right here and you now follow the left-hand side of the valley of Erkíes,
going up all the time on the steep slope. On your right, on the opposite
side of the valley, you notice a pigeon tower, then, there is a small
white church. You thus go higher and higher for about 10 minutes, with a
great view on Kástro behind you. The climb then gets a little less
steep and Kástro disappears behind the side of the hill – you can now
really enjoy the beautiful valley with lots of blooming oleanders (on
the 4th of June 2006). After about 13-14 minutes of climbing,
you arrive at another junction: straight ahead, past a few vertical
stones and on the right-hand side of a wall, there is a flat trail,
continuing to Exámbela and Apollonía (red dot) – see the hike Kástro
- Apollonía. Over here you go up on the left. The nice path goes
up quite steeply again; after 7 minutes you arrive at a small plateau
where you can admire the magnificent view: on the left Agios Andréas
with underneath the monastery of Vrísis, more to the right the Profítis
Ilías with underneath Exámbela, further on the Agios Simeoón with
underneath the village of Apollonía, then Káto Petáli and more to the right the
mills of Artemónas, and all the way to the right the mills of Kástro.
A great view on a large part of the island! After 3 more
minutes you get to a gravel road for a short while and you follow this
road to the right. Some 100 metres further you find another trail on the
left (2 purple dots). At the junction, a couple of minutes later on, you
go right (again two purple dots) – the islands on the left are Antíparos/Páros,
Síkinos and Folégandros. About 5 minutes later you get to a small
gravel road, besides a house; you follow this road to the left and very
soon it turns into concrete. After 3 more minutes you reach the asphalt
road, next to the power station. Unfortunately, you
now have to follow this asphalt road to the left for about 13 minutes;
after 12 minutes you pass a trail off the left - this trail leads to Kástro
via a shorter route (opposite a cabin with a tap and a red fire plug).
One minute further on you take the gravel road on the right (signpost to
"Fotovoltaïc plant") and some 1-2 minutes later your path
continues straight ahead. You now keep going
down: after 5-6 minutes you keep to the right, of course, and after
another 2-3 minutes you reach
a three-forked-junction; over here you take the gravel road straight
ahead until you find a trail going straight ahead again, after about
10-15 metres – for a short while you can already see Chryssopigí deep
underneath. Some 7 minutes later you get to the final descent, with Fáros
and also Chryssopigí nicely situated in front of you. Slightly further
you have to walk through a typical Greek gate and after a descent of 15
minutes all together you arrive at the church. You continue to go down
and by keeping to the left you reach the small harbour and the first
little beach of Fáros. After a possible
break in Fáros you traverse the cape beyond the first beach, on the
left of the ouzéri O Fáros (signpost Glyfó) and you walk over the
larger, second beach, with some small trees.
View on the second beach of Fáros. On the other side
of this beach, you find a staircase path, leading up, above the sea and
round a cape – above the ruins of a loading quay. You then walk around
a second cape, underneath the little chapel of Agios Charalámbos and a
picturesque house with a tree – from this point you can make some
marvellous pictures of the cape with Chryssopigí.
View on the peninsula of Chryssopigí (from Agios Charalámbos). You keep going down, through a wooden gate, until you reach the beach of Apokoftó.
The path with a typical Greek gate, near Apokoftó. This is a nice,
sandy beach, with smooth rocks in the water, beautiful large trees and a
very pleasant terrace of the restaurant To Apokoftó – it has now been
20 minutes since you left Fáros...
The beautiful monastery of Chryssopigí. After your visit you take the concrete road inland, but after 10
metres already you find a staircase on the left. By
means of some 250 steps, a few times interrupted by a paved stretch and
a small road, this staircase brings you all the way up, to the main road
to Platýs Gialós, next to the bus stop. You follow the
asphalt road to the left for about 2-3 minutes, until you get just
before the road descending to Chryssopigí (there is also a signpost).
At the – for the moment – first house on the right, there is a
gravel road off the right and a little further this road turns into a
trail. Maybe, this trail will become a gravel road in the near future,
because after a couple of minutes already you get to some houses under
construction. Some 4 minutes later you reach a small gravel road,
indeed, which turns into concrete further on. But, when you arrive at
the asphalt road, after 3 minutes, you seem to have cut off a large
bend. You cross the main
road and straight across you go down a small concrete road, all the way
along pretty fashionable hotels with swimming pools. After 4 more
minutes you thus get to the least nice part of the beach of Platýs Gialós. The best thing to do is to walk to the right for a few more
minutes: the pebbles will then become sand and there are also some
tamarisks. You thus get to the jetty in concrete, and further down the
one in wood – over here begins the nicest part of the beach and you
can spend the rest of the day here, while waiting for the bus to go
back. [When walking to
the asphalt road, situated a little inland, you arrive between the 3rd
(on the right) and the 4th bus stop; a few more minutes to
the left you find the terminus (the 5th stop): over here
there is a small road, leading to the camping on the right (this is the
beginning of the hike to Vathý and Fikiáda – see the hike Platýs
Gialós - Vathý), straight ahead you can go to the beautiful hotel Platýs
Gialós.]
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