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Apollonía - Vathý via the monastery of Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná |
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Evaluation:
This is a very nice variant of the hike from Apollonia to
Vathý via the Kalamítsi-well. In this way you avoid the steep descend into the
Kalamitsi-valley, you walk rather flatly with a marvellous view on the
coast, and you also pass the picturesque monastery of Agios Nikolas T' Aerina – which makes for a great picnic spot! And at the end there is
again the attractive beach of Vathý. This beautiful hike deserves the
maximum evaluation of ****! Estimated time:
it is a good idea to leave early, especially in summer time. If you add
the three-hour-detour via the Profítis Ilías, you definitely have to
leave at about 8-9 o’clock in the morning. The hike from Apollonia to Vathý
(without the Profítis Ilías) takes about four hours, but it is
nice to also have some time left on the beach. Route
description:
The bus from Kamáres stops on the Platia Iroöon (the Square of Heroes),
where you can relax for a while on a bench in the shade. On this square
you will find the museum of folklore (closed on Sunday mornings), the
war monument and the post office. The pedestrian street to
Katavatí begins on the right of the square, in between the bar I Gonía
and
a pay phone. The pedestrian street to Artemónas
begins in between the little store Tésseris Epochés and the bar Lákis. Two hikes by
themselves are to walk up and down from Apollonía to Katavatí and to
Artemónas, while enjoying all of the beautiful churches and all of the
picturesque spots. But in fact, you can as well explore these streets on
the hikes from Apollonía to Vathý and to the Agios Simeoón. So, for the trail
to Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná and Vathý you take the very picturesque street to
Katavatí, in between
the bar I Gonía and a pay phone. After some ten metres this
street curves to the right and it continues past the beautiful churches
of Stavrós and Taxiárchoon. About five minutes later you get to the
Mitrópoli, the main church.
The
little church of Stavrós, on the way to Katavatí. You then go
straight, up the long staircase, and after another five minutes you get
to the gymnásio, the secondary school. You continue up this street, you
walk on the right hand side of a curve in the asphalt road for a couple
of metres, going further towards Katavatí (sign-post). On the right you pass the street
which leads to a church with a white dome and you walk past the hotel
Galíni. You continue to go up slightly (you pass another path off the
right) until you have passed another little white church with a white
dome, the Panagía Angeloktisti – there is a beautiful sarcophagus in
front of this church. The street goes further down for a little while,
but then you have to take a street off the right with a sign-post to the
Profítis Ilías – some fifteen minutes after your departure. You then follow
the broad concrete path. You pass a little concrete road on the left, an
earth path again on the left, and a little further another earth path on
the right. The trail then turns into a typical donkey path. It runs in
between walls and after a couple of minutes it reaches the bypass around
Apollonía. You cross this road, slightly going to the right, and there
you will find the beautiful monopati with a big sign the Profítis Ilías
and Mávro Chorió. It has now been almost 20 minutes since you have left Apollonía. You take this path, which first goes up along a marvellous paved staircase for about five minutes – you just have to ignore the little side roads. Afterwards, the trail continues rather flatly. After ten minutes you pass a path which goes up to the left to Agii Anárgyri, and after some fifteen minutes - you are already right into the magnificent interior Sífnos – you get to the path which goes up to the right towards the Profítis Ilías. At this point you cannot yet see the monastery on the top of the mountain. [If
you first want to climb all the way to this 681-metres high top, you
will have to go up steeply along a zigzag trail. The monastery looks
like a fortress and inside you will find an interesting church and an
impressive dining hall. On the 18th and the 19th
of July there is always a great festival on this location. From the
summit you have a great panoramic view over the whole of the island. If you do not want
to visit the Profítis Ilías, you go straight, towards the left, and
the path then continues through a small gorge. After some three-four
minutes you get to a kind of rocky plateau – in front of you you will
see the corner of a wall. On the opposite hill you can distinguish the
beautiful church of Agios Eustáthios. [At this point
there is a path off the left towards the south; this is an opportunity
to visit the interesting site of Agios Andréas and to return to Apollonía
– in this way you get to the hike Apollonía - Agios Andréas .] In order to go to
Vathý, though, you have to follow the main path to the right. You keep
thus to the right hand side of the wall and you go up slightly (you will
find a sign and there is also an old indication for this hike: a red
cross in a square with dotted lines). The trail is still very clear, it
curves to the right, following the valley and very soon you will see
some ruins and also the beautiful old church of Taxiárchis tis Skáfis
in front of you. |
Taxiárchis
tis Skáfis, on the way from Apollonía to Vathý.
Before the church
you pass a little road off the left.
You then walk on the right hand side of a palm tree and you
cannot help thinking: “Where does this tree come from?”. A staircase
on the right leads towards the monastery. This is a very pleasant place
to have some rest: the door is often open, there are some wall paintings
behind the ikonóstasis, and there is a strong smell of incense. The actual monopáti
runs underneath the monastery and during the next 20 minutes it goes up
gradually, sometimes like a staircase. Often, the path is narrow, in
between a wall on the left and the rock on the right – in Summer time
this is really a very hot spot! After some eight minutes you descend for
a little while into a green valley, on the right hand side you have a
nice view on the Profítis Ilías and the monastery. A little further,
though, the trail goes up again steeply. Twenty minutes after Taxiárchis
you will thus get to a platform with a lot of bushes. Just before this
platform there is even some shade underneath a couple of trees – you
better take advantage of this! Immediately after
you get to the end of the wall and on the open platform, there is a
junction: you DO NOT take the broad path straight ahead, but you go
left, more or less along a wall (there are blue dots). After some three
minutes there is another junction and at this point you have to watch
out: here you take a different
route than the one to Vathý via the Kalamítsi-well. The other hike goes
right, but you have to take a left now, guided by some blue arrows and
dots. Another five minutes later you see a deep gorge on the slope to the right. On the opposite side there is a flat hill with a little pillar on top of it. By walking further on you approach a large wall straight ahead: 50 metres before this wall there is a vague path off the right, which you ignore. Later on, there is a clear junction: to the right, in western direction, there is a path with red dots and red-brownish stripes. This is yet another trail going to Vathý, which, further on, joins the path from the Kalamítsi-valley to Vathý. However, you would like to pass Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná, so you have to go straight. You walk on the right hand side of a wall (which surrounds a couple of large fields with two white buildings) and you follow this wall for about four to five minutes (notice the orange-red dots). By continuing in this way you get to a rocky plateau and at this point you have to watch out again: you have to follow the path along the wall until you have turned towards the south east and until you see red arrows on a three-forked junction. Going to the left, following the wall, the trail leads towards Agios Andréas (see the hike Apollonía-Agios Andréas). You have to take a right, though, in southwestern direction, on a vague path (with some dark red arrows), in between juniperus bushes. All of a sudden you will get to the rim of the plateau, where you have a beautiful view on the bay of Vathý.
The bay of Vathý. You can now see
the path more clearly again; it goes in western direction and Vathý
remains to the left of you. After a couple of minutes, by following the
red arrows and dots, you reach the picturesque and very white monastery
of Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná. The nickname of this monastery refers to the
fact that this spot is often very windy.
The beautiful monastery of Agios Nikólaos T' Aeriná. It is perfect to
have your picnic on this refreshing place. The path to Vathý
begins on the northwest (thus under and to the right) of the monastery, a large, red dot indicates the
right direction. After a while, this trail gets to the lower path you
have left behind some time ago; this is the regular trail to Vathý.
Guided by a lot of red dots you cannot get lost anymore, so half an hour later
you arrive on the inviting beach of Vathý.
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