Chóra - Tripótamos - Xóbourgo - Koumáros - Loutrá - Kámbos - Chatzirádos - Ktikádos - Chóra
Evaluation:
This hike is rather long, but it is really fascinating; along the road you get
to know about five beautiful villages in the interior of the island and you can
also climb to the 559-metres high summit of Xóbourgo. A number of trails are
absolutely marvellous. This hike definitely deserves an evaluation of ***.
Estimated time:
The total hike takes 4 1/2 hours – actual hiking time: 1h40 to the foot of Xóbourgo,
25 minutes till Koumáros, some 20 minutes to Loutrá, 35 minutes till Kámbos,
30 minutes till Ktikádos and then another hour back to Chóra. By taking it
fairly easy we hiked from 10.30am to 7.30pm. If you want to climb up the
platform of Xóbourgo you have to add another hour – but you can also combine
this climb with another hike. You can considerably shorten the hike by taking a
taxi to Xóbourgo (7 € in April 2005) or by catching the bus from Kámbos back
to Chóra – if the bus schedule allows you to.
Route description:
When leaving from the town of Tínos or Chóra there are two ways to get to the
important hiking trail leading to the interior of the island:
- you can either leave from the quay at the old harbour; from the little square
with a kind of modern stage in the middle you then take the broad Leofóros
Megalocháris, which goes up to the large cathedral of the Panagía Evangelístria.
You thus follow this street upwards.
- you can also leave from
the modern harbour and then you will enter Chóra via the Leofóros Stavroú -
Kioníoon. In this case you arrive at a first little square with palm trees and
a playground. If you go straight ahead in the left-hand corner, you reach a
second little square with a fountain + dolphin. Over here a narrow street leads
straight ahead to the third square, at the foot of the Leofóros Megalocháris,
where you can go up on the left. However, maybe you did already see the small
blue sign in the corner of the first square. The text on this sign says Xóbourgo
- Falatádos - Liváda / Fáros and you can follow this sign by taking a left
into the Odós Theológos Afentoúli. Later on this street becomes the Odós
Nikoláou and after some 4 minutes you get to a sign pointing to the Evangelístria
on the right.
[If you want to you can
first visit the church, but it might be a better idea to postpone this visit to
a more relaxed day! If you departed via the broad Megalocháris-lane, you have
to take a left on the last crossing before the large church: over here you can
also find a blue sign pointing to Xóbourgo and Falatádos. In this way you get
to the Odós Nikoláou as well.]
From the Odós Nikoláou
you go straight ahead into the Odós Várvaras; this staircase-street continues
for about 5 minutes, leaving the town behind, and then it turns into a paved
road. After another 2-3 minutes you cross the asphalt ring road and on the other
side you go up on a broad and paved path.
Slightly further down you
get to the old paving and you also walk between the traditional walls; remember
that this is still the ancient Venetian trail that many centuries ago already
connected the harbour and the fortress of Xóbourgo. On your right-hand side you
pass a drive with a misleading red arrow – which you ignore, obviously – and
further down you also pass a broader gravel road off the right. You continue
straight ahead all the time, going up on a marvellous kalderimi. After about 40
minutes you walk on a road coming from the left for a short while. Going
straight ahead, though, you get to the old monopati again - which is narrower
now - after about 10 metres. You walk underneath a small church and you
gradually curve to the right; in this way you get a beautiful view on Chóra,
right underneath your trail. After some 50 minutes you thus arrive at the chapel
of Agia Xéni – this is a spot well maintained, with lanterns, but it is often
very windy over here. You can take some rest on a bench inside the church.
In fact, this place is an
important crossing of hiking trails, so it is a spot you might pass a number of
more times when hiking on the island of Tinos. On the right there is only a
blocked trail; on the left a nice path runs downwards in the direction of Ktikádos
and Kámbos; and straight ahead (on the right-hand side of the chapel) the trail
continues to Xóbourgo – today, this is the way to continue.
Your trail keeps going up
beautifully until you walk underneath a high-voltage cable after some 10 minutes
– from here onwards you start to descend gradually. A couple of minutes
further down you get to a three-forked junction: your trail continues on the
left, over a little bridge; on your right-hand side you notice a nice well.
After another 6 minutes the trail leads to the asphalt road, next to some houses
of Tripótamos. On the opposite side, on the left, you can see the famous cheese
factory or "tirokomío".
On the right of the drive
to the factory you can go down on an overgrown path. You can also proceed on the
grounds of the factory for a short while and on the right you can then find the
old trail again. In any case, you should walk on the left-hand side of a small
church and in the direction of the right-hand wind mill. You have to watch out:
do not go directly to the right on a vague trail. Instead, you should continue
straight ahead, along a small white building. Usually, it is very windy over
here – it is no coincidence that wind mills have been built on this place. A
little further you get to a junction – wooden signs point to Xinára (straight
ahead) and to Xóbourgo (to the right).
The narrow and overgrown
trail (once in a while there is also a trail marker [2]) runs more or less
horizontally above the village of Xinára, in the direction of the windy gorge,
on the right and underneath the impressive rock summit of Xóbourgo. After 10
minutes you get to the left of a chapel, and a large signpost sends you to the
left. A couple of more minutes later you already reach the first ruins of the
old “city” – over here you should NOT go right on a flat trail, but
straight ahead, on the left of a small ruin. You go up a little more, curving on
the right of the rock with some more ruins on top. By climbing up all the time
you get underneath a white chapel and slightly further down you can already
distinguish the large building of the monastery of Ieras Kardías. A path on the
left leads to the small church – this is a pleasant, though rather early
picnic spot, not only because of the great panoramic view, but also because you
can sit out of the wind.
The landscape is green and grand, with a view on Falatádos in front of you
towards the left, and on Chóra on the right. The islands located in front of
you are: on the left the island of Míkonos with the smaller islands of Dílos
and Rhínia, and further to the right first the island of Náxos and then Páros.
From the little church you
walk back to the main trail, which you follow to the left. Just before you reach
the two large churches, you find a sign on the left, pointing towards the Kástro
– you are now at an altitude of 440 metres. After about 3 minutes you already
walk through some remains of ruins and after 8 minutes you arrive at the actual
Venetian remnants of the kástro. At this place, though, also remains of much
older buildings have been found, such as the remnants of the ancient city of Tínos,
founded at about 1000 BC. During the excavations, some geometrical and archaic
statuettes have also been discovered.
The trail continues now under the form of steps, until you get to the cross of
1931 and the aerials on top of the 559-metres-high summit. The panoramic view is
fantastic over here: from the southeast to the southwest (and from left to
right) you can distinguish in clear weather: Mýkonos with Dílos and Rhínia
(and the islands of Náxos, Páros and Antíparos beyond), Sýros (with the
islands of Sífnos, Sérifos and Kýthnos beyond) and the uninhabited island of
Giáros. You can also discern many villages, such as Koumáros, Kámbos, Chatzirádos
and Ktikádos!
It takes you about 10 minutes to get down again.
You now continue to the
catholic monastery of the Holy Heart (Ieras Kardías); you walk on the
right-hand side of the wall, and then you do not go straight ahead, but you take
a left – a blue sign points in the direction of Falatádos. You follow the
meandering concrete road until you arrive at a stable with a flat roof after a
couple of minutes. On the left of the stable
you find the beginning of two paths: the right-hand trail (with a small blue
sign) leads to Falatádos (see the hike Chóra - Falatádos - Voláx - Agápi),
the left-hand trail leads to the village of Koumáros (wooden sign post).
You take the left-hand,
rocky trail, which descends quickly with a beautiful view on the green valley.
After some 10 minutes already you get to Koumáros, a nice village with a main
street with three vaulting arches. You pass a self service café and you thus
walk through the village till you reach the asphalt road, where you can find a
nice well. You then walk back the way you came and some 10 metres past the third
vault and the café, at the house with number 35, you take a right. Slightly
further you go left and in this way you walk in north-western direction out of
the village (there is also a red dot). You soon arrive at a shaded trail, which
descends quickly into a very green valley (red dot and arrow). After 5-6 minutes
you get to a concrete slope, you cross the valley and you continue straight
ahead on a narrow and flat trail (red dot). A little further you go through an
iron gate, not without difficulties. The trail is somewhat overgrown and some 3
minutes later on you arrive at a gravel road – you have to take the gravel
road going DOWN on the left (so the second road).
You follow this road for
some 6 minutes, which means that you have to go through a broad open gate. You
thus get near the village of Loutrá, on the asphalt road. You take a left for a
short while and then you go right immediately, towards the village. You enter
the village on the right of the school. You proceed in the direction of the
museum, you go past the church and in the centre you take a left. You should
have a look into the side street off the right, with the vaulted arches. You
continue through the village in south-western direction, on the right of the
Ursulin monastery, until you get to the left of the large building of the
Jezuits.
Over here you notice a
crossing – the trail on the right leads to the villages of Perástra and Krókos,
but you continue straight ahead on the nice stone staircase (large red dot). The
following descent into the very green valley is wonderful; after some 6 minutes
you cross a small river with streaming water (27 April 2005) by means of a
number of stepping stones. Thereafter you get to a steep climb, so a couple of
minutes later you have a great view on the three villages behind you: Krókos,
Skaládos and Loutrá to the right. On your left-hand side you see the high rock
of Xóbourgo with the village of Xinára. A little further you take a sharp
right (redundant red arrow), this is a marvellous spot with a small stream and
shaded by some large trees. About 14 minutes after your departure from Loutrá, near a
pigeon tower, you get to a three-forked junction. Over here you take a right,
following a red dot. Some 2 minutes later you might hesitate a little, but a red
dot sends you to an overgrown and flat path, off the right. This is the right
way to go, because 1 minute further down, at two pigeon towers, there is a red
arrow pointing to the left, towards a steep trail made of steps. After a
difficult climb you suddenly arrive at a small church and you can see the
village of Kámbos in front of you – a small paved road, turning into gravel,
leads to this village. You have to watch out, though: at the beginning of the
village you have to take the first, somewhat overgrown street on the left and
then you have to follow the red dots. Past the church you take a right for a
short while and then you go left, where you find another red dot. Before the
second church you notice the snack bar Romantica at a corner – taking a rest
is not a bad idea and it is also worthwhile to have a look around here: also in
Kámbos there are many arched streets, although “civilisation” has struck
and some of the vaults are now made of concrete…
You continue on the street
next to the bar Romantica (so on the left of the second church), until you get to the
end of the village (have a look at the beautiful side streets). In this way you
arrive at the asphalt road, near a telephone booth and the bus shed. You keep
following the asphalt road to the left, in the direction of the mill with a red
roof. Some 4 minutes further down, in a bend to the left and about 50 metres
before the mill, there is a concrete wall with a gate on the right, to the left
of which you find the beginning of a path between walls.
You descend towards the
blue dome of the church of Chatzirádos – after 4 minutes you keep to the left
at a chapel, obviously (there are some red dots) and a couple of minutes later
you cross a gravel road. On a steep slope you then proceed straight
ahead. The sloppy path almost
gets to Chatzirádos, but 50 metres before the church a broad staircase comes
from the right-hand side. Over here you enter a paved alley on the left.
Another 50 metres further down, on a small square next to a little tower, you go
up a broad staircase on the left. You thus get next to the asphalt road with a
bus stop. You do not walk on
the asphalt road, but you continue straight ahead on the paved street on the
right-hand side of this road. In this way you proceed in the direction of a ruin
of a mill on the opposite hill.
The concrete street, later
on with steps, leads to a bridge. You cross this bridge and then the road keeps
meandering between the dispersed houses – once in a while there is a small
church. You keep to the left and then to the right (red dots) and you thus get
to another asphalt road, which you follow to the right for about 200 metres. At
the end of this road (near a bus shed) you go straight ahead on the street
running on the left-hand side of the large church. You are now in Ktikádos,
another beautiful village; you should have a look at the beautifully decorated
lunettes above the windows, even in the new houses. You first pass the Ouzéri
Agnánti, and slightly further the beautiful tavern Drosiá. Over here you can
have a drink, enjoying the great panoramic view. A little further, though, the
view is as beautiful from the forecourt of the last church, the Panagía Megalómata
(Our Blessed Lady with the big eyes) – to get to this spot you have to go
right for a short while and then through the gate with a nicely decorated frame.
The view over the green terraces is fantastic and in the church itself there are
a number of wonderful icons.
Outside the village you
immediately get to another beautiful path, on the left of the green valley. After
3-4 minutes you ignore the trail going down on the right, but you continue
horizontally. You thus
proceed straight towards the chapel far away in front of you, in the depression
of the hills just opposite – this is where you were this morning! Just before
you really start going down, you notice the beautiful staircase straight ahead
on the opposite side… You cross the river on a marvellous arched bridge, built
in 1859, and you then climb for 5 minutes on a nice, broad staircase towards the
chapel.
In this way you get back
to the laid out terrace, from where you can already see the tongue of land of
the town of Tínos – the old harbour is built against this point. On the left
you distinguish the island of Mýkonos with the small island of Dílos, and
further on the islands of Náxos and Páros. You take a right here, of course,
on the beautiful and old monopáti, which easily brings you back to Chóra.
After 8 minutes you get to a gravel road for a short while, but some 20 metres
further down you take a left again, onto the old trail – it still dates from
the era of the Venetians. During the long and steady descent in the evening sun
you gradually get a really beautiful view on the town of Tínos. Just before you
reach the ring road your trail turns into modern paving; on the asphalt road
you continue straight ahead, keeping a little to the left on the paved road.
Going straight ahead all the time you can thus reach your point of departure.
You can also take the first broad street on the left and then further the Leofóros
Megalocháris on the right. In this way you arrive at the marina, right in the
centre of town.