Chorió 

Evaluation: Chorió, the capital of Kímolos, is a charming and very authentic little town, which really deserves a quiet visit. It is very likely that when making other hikes you will pass through a number of these quarters of Chorió: through the kástro at the start of the hike to the beaches of Dékas and Elleniká, through the main street when heading for all of the hikes going via Agii Anárgyri, and past the mills on the hill ridge of Xaplovoúni on the way back from Goúpa and Klíma. In this hike we briefly describe these three quarters of Chorió. The hike gets an evaluation of ***.

Estimated time: It is difficult to give an exact time indication for these three short hikes: it will cost you about 10 minutes to leisurely walk up and down high street; you can spend half an hour to stroll around the kástro; and to and fro the mills will take about half an hour as well.

Route description 1 through high street: The most typical spot in the heart of Chorió is the village square with the long name Platía Ikonómou Spyrídonos Ramfoú, the "Kámbos", the Field, in popular speech.
Over there you find the white-blue church Agios Spyrídoon, the kafenío "O Kámbos", a phone booth and a small play area. 

The platía or Kámbos, the central square of Chorió.

It is really nice to sit on this square for a while and you can also have a chat with the locals – this is how we learnt that even in wintertime some 5-600 people are living in this town.
When standing near the kafenío, with your back to the church with the blue vaults, you can take the street on the left of another, white chapel, towards the north: this is high street. In this way you pass a new, but pleasant bar, "Tis Charás", a pantopolío and two butchers. On the square with a well you keep to the right, and you continue on high street. You pass the bakery, a greengrocery, and another butcher, next to the church with a blue dome of Papadí and Theoskepastí . You then arrive at the post office and the OTE-aerial, with straight across the small pantopolío of Kikí Marináki.

The grocery or pantopolío of Kikí Marináki.

If you continue, you will reach the trail of the hikes to Agii Anárgyri, the Paleókastro, the Profítis Ilías and the Skiádi. You go back the way you came in order to finish this first exploration.

Route description 2 through the kástro: Also leaving from the Kámbos you take (with your back to the play area) the small street behind the church with the blue roof with a double vault. This street goes up on the right and a little further you take the first street off the right: you pass the restaurant "To Panórama" and you reach the entrance gate to the kástro, with a small sign "kástro" next to it.

The eastern Páno Pórta, an entrance to the "exterior kástro".

Just like other examples of a kástro, also this kástro was built when the island was subdued by the so-called “Frankish” – in fact these were Venetians who occupied a great number of islands after the fourth crusade of 1204. In 1207 Marco Sanudo united Kímolos with the Latin dukedom, with the town of Náxos as capital. The kástro was of course several times rebuilt and renovated – a stone with the date of 1656 is now displayed above the Páno Pórta.

Detail of a stone above the the Páno Pórta.

The southern "Káto Pórta" of the "exterio kástro".

It is very pleasant to stroll around in the small streets of the kástro: from the "exterior kástro" you get to the "interior kástro", where you find the church of Christós, with the date of 1592 on an inscription next to the southern door. There used to be 123 houses in this kástro, with on each floor the living quarters of a different family.
From the date of independence of 1821 onwards, the kástro started to depopulate, so many houses are still unoccupied or have fallen into ruins.  

Images of the best preserved parts of the kástro.

Walking back to the Kámbos from the kástro, you might pass the beautiful Byzantine church of Ioánnis Chrysóstomos, close to the platía.  

Agios Ioánnis Chrysóstomos.

[This means that leaving from the Kámbos you can also follow the little street on the left-hand side of the houses containing the kafenío and the kámara (vaulted passage). This street goes up and runs on the left of the Byzantine church Ioánnis Chrysóstomos. When following the signpost to the "archaeological museum", you walk around the kástro and you finally reach the large Mitrópoli. The museum is often closed – it should be open from 8.30am to 3pm, except on Mondays.]

Route description 3 to the mills on the Xaplovoúni: Again, you depart from the Kámbos and you walk to the northwestern corner of the square, you go underneath the trees and across the play area. The street in front of you is the Odós Marigos Polyxenis and you walk past the little church with the blue dome. You keep going higher and higher and very soon you reach a very beautiful trail that meanders on the southern slope of the Xaplovoúni, covered with a mass of cacti.

Panoramic view on Chorió during the climbing of the Xaplovoúni.

On top of the hill ridge you discover the remains of 8 mills all together. Only two of them are somewhat preserved, even with their roof covering. The entire site looks rather miserable: only ruins are remaining, with flung down millstones, and a few turning mechanisms with their large spindles. The panoramic view from here is really worthwhile, though.

The mills on the Xaplovoúni.

View on Chorió from the Xaplovoúni.

For the descent you should leave from the last but three ruin, on the left of the only house. You go down in south-southwestern direction, on the nicely paved path. It will only take you about 6 minutes to get back to the Kámbos.

The nice path from the mills to Chorió.

 

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