(Xóbourgo) - Falatádos - Mirsíni - Liváda - Falatádos
Evaluation: This hike is situated in the greenest part of the island of Tínos – almost everywhere the trail is indicated by means of the trail marker [1], so it is fairly easy to follow. You can start the hike in the village of Falatádos [1A] or in Mirsíni [1B]. We have added a third side to the triangle by first walking from Falatádos to Mirsíni (no trail markers). We have interrupted the hike in Liváda, but if you are adventurous-minded you could continue to the beach of Liváda and then even further to the light house – this will make the way back even longer, though... If you have not yet climbed the plateau of Xóbourgo, you could also consider starting your hike at the foot of Xóbourgo. This hike clearly deserves an evaluation of ***.
Estimated time:
If you begin this hike in Falatádos, the trajectory to Mirsíni will take 20
minutes; we then hiked for another hour before setting out on the return route.
Hiking back to Falatádos has cost us another 1h20 – still actual walking time.
The entire hike (till Liváda) thus takes 2h40 (AWT). Catching a taxi to Falatádos
will cost you about 9 € (in May 2005); but since this hike also comes back to
Falatádos, you could consider renting a car for this day.
[If you would like to take
an early start and leave from Xóbourgo, you have to count on another 40 minutes
to climb to the summit and to come back down again; thereafter it will take you
another 30 minutes to Falatádos.]
Route description:
[If you begin the day at
Xóbourgo, the taxi will drop you near the large monastery of the Holy Heart
(Iera Kardía). You walk along the left-hand wall in the direction of the
plateau of Xóbourgo; pretty soon you see a sign in front of you, which points
to the right, towards the Kástro – you are now at an altitude of 440 metres.
After about 3 minutes you
already walk through some remains of ruins and after 8 minutes you arrive at the
actual Venetian remnants of the kástro. At this place, though, also remains of
much older buildings have been found, such as the remnants of the ancient city
of Tínos, founded at about 1000 BC. During the excavations, some geometrical
and archaic statuettes have also been discovered.
The trail continues now under the form of steps, until you get to the cross of
1931 and the aerials on top of the 559-metres-high summit. The panoramic view is
fantastic over here: from the southeast to the southwest (and from left to
right) you can distinguish in clear weather: Mýkonos with Dílos and Rhínia
(and the islands of Náxos, Páros and Antíparos beyond), Sýros (with the
islands of Sífnos, Sérifos and Kýthnos beyond) and the uninhabited island of
Giáros. You can also discern many villages, such as Koumáros, Kámbos, Chatzirádos
and Ktikádos!
It takes you about 10 minutes to get down again.
You now continue to the
catholic monastery of the Holy Heart (Ieras Kardías); you walk on the
right-hand side of the wall, and then you do not go straight ahead, but you take
a left – a blue sign points in the direction of Falatádos. You follow the
meandering concrete road until you arrive at a stable with a flat roof after a
couple of minutes. On the left of the stable you find the beginning of two
trails: the right-hand trail (with a small blue signpost) is your trail that
leads to Falatádos; the left-hand trail goes to the village of Koumáros (there
is a wooden signpost) and then to Loutrá and Kámbos – for this trajectory
see the hike Chóra - Xóbourgo - Koumáros - Loutrá - Kámbos - Chóra.
You thus take the right-hand path, you open a small iron gate and in this way you get to an overgrown trail between walls. There are also thistles, so some long trousers come in handy. After about 8 minutes you arrive at an asphalt road; you climb down and you proceed straight ahead on the gravel road in the direction of Falatádos. You follow this rather monotonous road for about 14 minutes – fortunately, the green fields with flowers offer some distraction.
Some 28 minutes after your
departure from the monastery you reach the asphalt road. On the left you notice
a trail leading to Voláx, see the hike Chóra - Xóbourgo - Falatádos - Voláx
- Agápi, but today you follow the asphalt road. Already one minute later you
get to the church of the hamlet of Kathlikádos. It then takes you another 5
minutes to reach the actual village of Falatádos, where you continue until you
get underneath the church with the two towers.]
If you leave from the
village of Falatádos, the taxi driver might drop you on the main road; in any
case, you then go up the slope (with steps in the middle), in the direction of
the large church: in this way you pass the school, the monument for the dead and
the café "To Katooi", and you thus arrive at the platía Megalochóri,
at the foot of the church with the two towers.
The street on the left
leads to Xóbourgo, and on the right there is the nice tavern "En Falatádoo".
You take a right here; you walk through the entire village, going down
gradually, and you pass a number of vaulted passages (kamáres). All the time
you rather keep to the right, towards the northeast and in this way you reach
the last houses of the village. Over here you notice a small concrete bridge on
the left, with on its left a beautiful rock trail (next to a black water pipe).
This obvious path runs
towards the north-northeast and it goes up slightly. Some fifteen minutes after
your departure you get to the crest of the hill, you turn to the right and you
follow the crest for a short time. Rather quickly, however, you descend on the
right; you see Mirsíni in front of you and you walk in the direction of the
church. You pass the church and you thus walk through the village until
you get to a T-junction. On
the right there is a grocery store and on the left you notice an arched passage
or “kamára" – over here, on a telephone pole, you also notice the
first trail marker, a small red-white sign with [1B]...
You thus take this small
concrete road in order to leave the village. You walk over a bridge and you then
follow the sandy road for a short while, until you get to a bend to the right
where you see the path in front of you – there is a blue dot and some 50
metres further you notice a reassuring trail marker [1B]: this is the right way
to go!
About 3 minutes further
down you take a right [1B], you go down and another 5 minutes later you cross a
small, humid valley; thereafter you go up again. Another 3 minutes later there
is a gravel road off the right, but you go straight ahead, obviously.
Your trail is clearly an ancient road and it seems to be used a lot – sometimes it is paved and sometimes there are steps. A beautiful staircase goes down midst the oak trees... Further down it turns into an earth trail, which still continues between the trees, mainly oak trees.
A couple of minutes later
on you go down into a dry bed of a river. For a short while you then walk along
a deep ravine on your left-hand side, and you descend until you arrive at a
junction. This is a nice spot, where you get to the main trail: on the left,
trail no. [1A] returns to Falatádos, on the right, the hike continues to Magganári
and Liváda.
Some minutes later you
really feel like hiking in the Belgian Ardennes or in Luxembourg: on your
left-hand side there is a deep valley with large trees and in front of you there
is a really beautiful well.
Slightly further you keep to the left (blue dot and the trail marker [1]), and after another 2-3 minutes you see a small waterfall on your left-hand side. This waterfall feeds the river, studded with large blocks of granite – slightly further down you cross this river by means of a bridge. You pass the few houses of Manganári (there is a wooden gate) and you continue on a well-maintained path.
The following stretch is
really beautiful, between large blocks of granite, rests of a volcanic eruption
of thousands and thousands of years ago.
Your trail is worn in the rocks and it never moves very much away from the
right-hand wall. Thereafter,
you get between two walls, but about ten minutes later you reach a gravel road.
This road first crosses a bridge on the left, and then it takes a right (blue
dots). Slightly further you cross the water by means of some large and flat
stones and you continue along the bed of the river.
Further down, the banks of
the river are somewhat fortified with concrete and later on you get to a spot
with large boulders in the water – over here you also discover about ten large
turtles!
You proceed to the left on
the gravel road and one minute later you take a right (blue dots); thereafter
your trail becomes less clear. After a ford in the river you follow this river
to the right (a blue dot), continuing on a broad and grassy path. You get
between the houses of Liváda and later on you arrive at a gate; you follow the
water by curving to the right (blue dot), you wade through the water one more
time and on the opposite side you follow a difficult and vague trail on the
left.
Two fairly difficult
minutes later you reach another gravel road. This road curves to the right and
it seems to move away from the sea – which, for some time already, you could
distinguish far away in front of you.
[Without doubt it should
be possible to reach the bay of Liváda and from there onwards to continue to
the lighthouse – the road did not seem very attractive, though.]
[In October 2005 Eric and
Nicole from the Haute-Savoie did follow this trajectory – you can read their
enthusiastic report under the hike Liváda - Fáros.]
You thus return the way
you came – it should definitely be enough to only give the most important
indications in telegram style:
- you walk back on the
gravel road till you get to the river
- you follow the difficult trajectory along the river and then you reach the
ford
- there is the grassy trail, then you go left on the concrete road and you get
to the second ford
- you proceed on the concrete road for 2 minutes and then you take a right on
the gravel road
- 2 minutes further you go right again, alongside the river (with the turtles),
then you take the gravel road off the right and you arrive at the third ford
- you go left and after 7 minutes you get to a wall with an open gate: you stay
on the right-hand side of the wall, along the bed of the river
- this stretch is really beautiful, midst a landscape with blocks of granite –
the trail is difficult at first, but then it becomes very beautiful
- after 8 minutes you go through a wooden gate, next to a small building, you
cross a bridge and then you follow
a nice path along the water
- you move away from the water and you begin a very nice climb under oak trees
- you pass the well and finally you get to the crossing.
Over here you take a
right, of course, in the direction of Falatádos – your return route follows
another valley. You go up now for some 7 minutes and in this way you arrive high
above a truly beautiful and rocky valley. Further down the valley becomes
grassier and it is studded with oak trees. Some 11 minutes after your departure
from the crossing you continue straight ahead, next to a modest chapel – you
notice some large boulders on the left and there is water everywhere (on the 1st
of May 2005)!
For a short while you
follow the water and the oleanders, but slightly further down you cross the
river and you climb up on the other side for about 3 minutes. At another very
simple chapel and near some huge boulders you go straight ahead again. A little
further you take a right (blue dot) and you climb even more. In the meanwhile
you can admire the pleasant landscape with its meadows, its sheep and its olive
trees.
After another 7 minutes
you pass a third chapel: you now walk high above a very nice valley with
marvellous trees – on the opposite side you can already see a couple of houses
of Mirsíni. You now continue for quite a while without any difficulties - the
landscape is very desolate; sometimes the path is paved and sometimes there are
steps. Some 11 minutes after the last chapel you have to keep to the right and
another 3 minutes further down you get to a rocky junction where you go left.
You should have a look at the beautiful valley on your left-hand side, with its
ponds full of croaking frogs!
All of a sudden, the large church of Falatádos appears in front of you... on your left you get an idyllic image: two picturesque little churches next to each other... A final effort and some 46 minutes after your departure from the crossing you arrive at a parking lot.
Over here you proceed
straight ahead, but in the village you take a left (blue dot). You thus get to
the Platía Karambéla: on the right there is another square, located underneath
the church. On this square you also find the attractive tavern "En
Falatadoo" – you should definitely try the "tsípouro" (rakí)
and the delicious mezé!
If you call a taxi from this tavern, it is better to wait for it downstairs, on the opposite side of the asphalt road.