Monastíri - Agii Anárgyri - Roúkounas - Panagía tou Dókari - Kastélli - Agios Mámas - Monastíri |
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Evaluation: In addition to the unique
walk from the lower monastery of Zoödóchos Pigí (the life-giving
source) to the high monastery of Panagía Kalamiótissa, there are some
other wonderful walks on the island of Anáfi; they can lead you from Roúkounas
to the monastery, either via the Kastélli,or via the coast. Estimated time:
Starting from the monastery, it costs you 1h20 (in AWT) to reach
the asphalt road, walking via Agii Anárgyri and the Roúkounas plateau.
You have to follow that road for about 4 minutes,
and then you can find the path to the Kastelli. It takes only 20-25
minutes to reach the remains of the old Anafč, on the slopes of the
Kastélli. It will then cost you 15 minutes to reach the chapel of Agios
Mámas. After another - and truly magnificent - 55 minutes you will get
back to the monastery. The actual walking time for the whole hike mounts
up to about 3h05. Route directions: [You can use the car to drive to the monastery, or - only in summer - take the bus from Chóra. Make sure you note the hours of the last bus that returns to Chóra!] You can first visit the monastery, or you can
wait to do this and visit the monastery after your return here. The
monastery is usually open from 11am to 1pm and from 6-8pm. The monastery of Zoödochos Pigí and the ancient temple wall. According to the legend, the god Apollo had rescued the ship of the
Argonauts from a heavy storm, on their way back from Kolchis, and this
by letting the island of Anáfi emerge from the sea. By way of thanks,
the Argonauts started to build what later would become a temple.
According to some inscriptions, also Zeus, Asklepios (the god of
medicine) and Afrodite were worshiped over here. A "sacred
road" connected the temple with the ancient capital of Anáfe, on
the slopes of the Kastélli – see the beautiful walk that leads from
Roúkounas via Kastélli and Agios Mámas to the monastery or the
equally beautiful walk from the monastery via Agii Anárgyri to Roúkounas,
that returns to the monastery via Kastélli and Agios Mámas … The ikonostási or templo in the church of Zoödóchos Pigí. The beautiful icon of Christ. (0h00) You start along the facade of the monastery, but next to the two columns, you go straight ahead (hiking sign Chóra 2h15 + [1]). Pretty soon you see the beach to which you have to descend - the path zigzags to the right and then to the left, but it has suffered quite a lot from erosion.
The descent from the monastery to the beach...
(0h16)
For the following 3 minutes you proceed just above the beach and then you climb
to the right on a small rocky promontory. The path goes even higher up and it is
now very clear. After a passage between brown rocks, the fine gravel path
continues rather horizontally. You get a very nice view on Agii Anárgyri, which
lies high on the protruding brown rocks. View towards the cape and the chapel of Agii Anárgyri. (0h31)
You arrive above the chapel and you notice the path continuing above the
coastline: you descend and continue horizontally. You pass above a beautiful but
inaccessible beach, and further on above a second little beach. A little bit
later, you descend to a third beach and the brownish path continues on the other
side. You now reach a beautiful stretch, high above the beautiful coastline.
Finally you descend to a fourth little valley, where you cross the river bed
some 20 meters away from the waterline.
The beautiful view on the monolith of the Kálamos.
(0h53)
From this point onwards you see the entire continuation of your path, with to
the far left the tip of the beach Roúkounas, and high up on the right the
asphalt road
which is your destination. The wide, rocky path continues high above the beautiful coast: two
times you descend slightly into a valley, and then you go up again, the third
time you descend to the bottom of the river bed. While descending, you can also
admire a beautiful country estate.
(1h08)
You cross the river bed midst reeds and next to a white little stable. You then
get to a climb of 4 minutes – while climbing, you have to cross a little road
[1]; a little further, you keep to the right on a vague fork. Above, you can
enjoy a nice view over the plateau
that lies before the beach of Roúkounas and that is remarkable because of its
big
cairns . (0h15) Pretty soon, you get to the crossroads with trail [2], where you should take a RIGHT. [If, however, you want to visit the plateau and the beach of Roúkounas, you must keep to the left at the start of the green trail (cairn) and then take another left at a well. You then turn to the left around an alóni (threshing floor) and in this way you pass on the left of a large rock and a stable. You walk to the plateau, where you pass on the right-hand side of the little chapel and a ruin. You follow the right edge of the uneven plateau – you can see the big cairns on your left-hand side. At the end of the plateau, it is possible to go down to the right towards the beach... |
On the plateau with the big cairns... Most
likely, these piles of stones used to be signals for the boats, which could moor
over here, close to the ancient city of Anáfe. Afterwards, you have to return the same way you
came: you thus
follow
the path inland, while keeping to the left of the plateau. In this
way you walk on the left of some ruins until you reach
the
little chapel. Over
there you find a white worn away path that continues around
the
alóni. It then curves to the right, where it turns into a clear path on
greenish gravel.
(1h15) You thus take a right
here, coming from Agii Anárgyri
- but, if you made the detour to Roúkounas, you do not continue straight of
course, but you should take the path that goes up to the LEFT (hiking
sign Kastélli 40’ + [2]). It zigzags along some white little poles. After 5
minutes, you get to a gravel road, where you continue straight ahead, until you
reach the asphalt road.
(1h22) You
take a right (hiking sign Kastélli + [2]), but after 3-4 minutes, past a
house with a double vault, a stairs built with bricks goes up to the
left (hiking sign Kastélli 20’ + [2]). The hiking signs at the beginning of walk [2] to the Kastélli and the monastery.
(1h26) The
path goes up the slope quite obviously – so, do not go to the left - and
runs along a boulder with a [2] on it. After an initial climb you get to
a flat stretch, but then you have to go up again. You keep to the right
at a bifurcation (cairn) and
the climb is rather steep now; after a few minutes, you go sharply to
the right, in the direction of a ruin, and after only eight minutes you
thus arrive at the Panagía tou Dókari, situated between a lot of wild
flowers (April 23, 2011). Noteworthy is the sarcophagus in front of the
chapel, with some beautiful sculpture (you notice a sphinx on the side).
Unfortunately, the cover is broken, and the sarcophagus now probably
serves as a drinking-trough ...
(1h34) On the right of the chapel, the path continues to climb (old hiking sign Ancient City + Agios Mámas) - 15 meters further there is a [2]. Pay attention: after a few minutes you have to keep to the right (cairn and red mark) and then your path goes up by describing many turns, with cairns in the turns. After 12 minutes you arrive next to a cave with a ruin, which probably served as a stable. This brings you to the old city of Anafč, with still some remains of walls. You keep going up to the left of a heavy wall (red marks) and then you will see to the left a kind of “street” between walls. Remains of the walls of ancient Anafč...
(1h51) At the top, you veer
somewhat to the left and you pass between an alóni (threshing floor) and
a nice round marble basin, where you keep a little bit to the right. You
go down now, while keeping to the left on a kind of terrace and you
reach in this way a passage in a wall, with a [2]. You descend a little
on a winding path and then a tub-shaped valley appears in front of you –
and you notice the path that runs all the way around this valley. You
pass below the top of the Kastélli (325 m), while curving to the right
on a very clear path. In the middle of this "amphitheater" you can take
a break and shelter from the wind that often blows fiercely on the sides
of the Kastélli. It is really a pleasant walk on the flat monopáti, with
a magnificent view over the valley and the south coast. About 15 minutes
past Anafč you arrive at a gravel road (sign "Ancient City" 15’-
Roúkounas 50’). A little bit further, you notice the modest (open)
chapel of Agios Mámas.
(2h05)
Behind the chapel there is the continuation of the path (sign Iera Odos
= Sacred Road / Monastíri 1h05 + [2] and [3]. The path will now continue
on the slope of the Chalépa (393-397 m). The next 20 minutes are just
fantastic: the wonderful path is flat or slightly rising and it
continues as on a balcony. After 15 minutes, you pass next to a building
that stands on a first height, and a nice stretch now follows.
(2h27)
After in total 22 minutes you arrive at a spot that is jutting out and
from there you have an unobstructed view over the entire monolith of
Kálamos, with the monastery on the left and the beach on the right –
truly a unique panorama. A unique panorama on the entire Kálamos! General view of the site of the monastery. You descend gradually and the path is mostly rather easy; after 10 minutes the path zigzags to the left and the right, but then you continue going down slowly. This descent gets more difficult because of the loose stones, but finally you reach the end of the asphalt road without a lot of problems, - some 52 minutes after Agios Mámas. A few more minutes and then you got back at the monastery of Zoödóchos Pigí. (3h06)
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