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Moní - Chalkí- Apáno Kástro - Páno Potamiá - Koúroi - Kournochóri |
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| Evaluation:
This is a long hike, combining a number of highlights – it might be a
useful hike if you do not have too much time to visit the island of Náxos.
Between Moní and Chalkí you will see two marvellous Byzantine churches;
visiting Chalkí is obviously very interesting; you will pass the Apáno
Kástro and you can take some time to pay a visit to the green valley of
Potamiá; at last you can also visit two koúros- statues. Therefore,
this hike gets an evaluation of ***. Estimated time:
The actual walking time takes about one hour to the church of Agios Geórgios
Diassorítis; when taking the shortest route it then takes another hour
to Páno Potamiá. To walk to the Koúros of Mélanes will last for 35
minutes and then it will take you half an hour to get to Kournochóri. When
taking into account the visits and the pauses these three hours of
actual walking time refer to a hike of about six hours – without
taking into account the detour via Chalkí or to the valley of Potamiá.
This will thus become a very beautiful, but long hiking day. Route
description:
Only in summer you will be able to take the bus to Moní, otherwise you
have to catch a taxi. When arriving in Moni, you walk through the
village till the café Parádeisos and the estiatórion To Panórama. It is still early,
but the outdoor terrace of To Panórama is very pleasant and the
panoramic view is really attractive. From the balcony of the café you
can see the white super-structure of the Panagía Drosianí, a place
where you will get to later on. Down under you can also notice the blue
dome of the church you will aim for right away.
The Panagia i Drosiani. The Panagía i
Drosianí (Our Lady of the Dew – according to the legend the famous
icon of Our Lady gets wet when the region faces danger or a disaster) is
an early Christian church, probably dating back to the 6th century. The
famous fresco’s which you can visit here date from the 6th or the 7th
centuries. Fortunately, the church is regularly open; you can also buy a
booklet (in Greek and English) with some explanations and with beautiful
illustrations of the icon and the fresco’s. From the church
you go down the paved trail, you cross the asphalt road and you continue
on the path straight ahead (there are some clear dots). Your trail
descends nicely and via a steep staircase you reach a small, dry bed of
a stream. You follow this bed to the left for a couple of minutes (there
is also a red arrow pointing to the left). Finally, you walk on the
left-hand bank of the river-bed – not too early though! – and the
monopáti becomes very nice again. You cross a small stream with
water and you go up on the left. You thus continue almost horizontally for some three to four minutes,
until you get to an open space with a concrete slope on the left.
Straight ahead you descend a couple of steps and you continue on the
left-hand side of a wall (with dots). The trail is slightly overgrown (especially
in Spring time); it first runs along a river and it then ends into this
river on a beautiful spot – you follow this dry bed to the left. At this point you should watch out: you should follow this bed with oleanders for exactly six minutes; at the corner of a wall (with a red dot and an arrow) you climb up the sloping rock and you continue on a beautiful trail for another three minutes. You then reach a stretch of gravel road – some 50 metres further down there is a white building – and here you have to go up on the right to the church of the Panagía Rachidiótissa, which is closed however. This is a nice spot though, so very inviting to take some rest. On the right-hand
side of the church you continue on a nice path between walls, (so you DO
NOT go back down). After about 50 metres you curve to the left and
downhill in front of you can - with some difficulties - discern the
ruined basilica of Agios Isídoros. A little further there is a trail off
the right, where from you can see the basilica even better. However, you
have to go straight at this point and you go further down – you thus
stay on the somewhat overgrown path. Some three minutes later you still
keep to the left and you now walk between wonderful, tall oak trees.
After another three minutes you arrive at a clear junction: the trail on
the left leads to the main valley and it thus returns to the Panagía
Rachidiótissa. Obviously, you should take a right; you walk on the
right-hand side of a very tall wall for another three minutes. You then
get to the deserted houses of Rachí and to the church. You then take
the narrow street off the left (there is a red dot). It runs in between
houses and after about two minutes it reaches a black gate. You descend
on the left in the ‘main street’. You continue to go down on
this concrete road, which runs all the way through the village. Across
the bridge the road gets larger and it describes a bend to the right. In
the next bend to the left you go straight ahead on a green path in
between walls (there is a sign). At a junction you take a right, and
further down you go right again on a stretch of turned over land. You
thus get to the marvellous church of Agios Geórgios o Diassorítis (or
Saint George the Saviour), situated amidst olive trees. This church
would be one of the oldest Christian buildings on the island, dating
from the 11th century. Sometimes, the church is open, but
definitely not on Mondays.
The church of Agios Geórgios o Diassoritis. From the church
you return, in the direction of Chalkí: you walk back over the turned
over stretch of land and a little further down you have to choose. [If you have not
yet paid a visit to Chalkí, you can keep to the left here; at the next
junction you have to go right. With some difficulties and with wet feet
you follow the flooded path (in May 2004) until you arrive at the church
Agia Marína. This chapel is really built on top of a well with lots of
water, even the floor of the chapel is wet! You take a right here and
you follow a meandering road for the next five minutes – all the way
you are guided by red dots. Just before the village of Chalkí you cross
the concrete road, you go straight ahead and you thus get against the
outer wall of the Ergostásio Kítrou of Vallándris. This is one of the
distilleries at Naxos, where the famous lemon drink is produced. The
work place is worth a visit and you can also buy different varieties of
this tasty drink. Before Vallándris you take a right for a short while,
then left again, and then you have reached the beautiful and very
pleasant outdoor terrace of the most popular tavern of Chalkí: O Giánnis. By taking the shopping street leaving from O Giánnis you arrive close to the church Panagía i Evangelístria i Protótronos. This church contains some beautiful wall paintings and specially a marvellous ikonostási; unfortunately though, the church is usually closed. Your best bet is in the early evening: at that time of the day you might see the papás opening the church in order to go and sing the vespers. In this way you can both admire the treasures of the church and enjoy the singing of the priest!
The Panagía i Evangelístria in Chalki. On the left of the
church you can walk into the small street to have look at the large
tower of the Pýrgos Grazía: also here you can notice the coat of arms
of the famous Venetian family Barozzi above the entrance.
The impressive Pýrgos Grazia in Chalki. In order to leave
Chalkí you go back to the distillery Vallándris. Over there you take a
narrow street on the right – at the place where you entered Chalkí
just a moment ago. After about 150 metres already you take the first
street off the left. You then go right and immediately thereafter left
again. In this way you leave the village and you arrive at a nicely
paved trail between walls and olive trees. One minute later you get to a
junction: you have to go straight ahead (there is a red arrow pointing
to the left). On your right you find the trail to Agios Geórgios
Diassorítis; this is the end of your detour to Chalkí.] If you DO NOT want to go to Chalkí, you have to take a right after the turned over stretch of land, on the way back from Agios Geórgios Diassorítis. Slightly further you reach the main trail from Chalkí to Tsikalarió and Apáno Kástro, where you have to go right obviously. During the next
couple of minutes the path tends to be slightly overgrown, especially in
Spring time; it is also littered with junk. After some three minutes you
cross a presumably new sand road; some five minutes later you walk
through a dry and large bed of a river – you then go up straight ahead.
After about seven minutes all together you get to a gravel road, which
you follow to the left for a short while, and then to the right (note
the red arrows and dots). Quite quickly the road becomes a nice path,
which is paved once in a while, and which now definitely climbs up.
After another six to seven minutes you arrive at a small square, near
the small church of Tsikalarió (on the right you can find a wash
place). At this point you have a great view on the valley filled with
olive trees, with Damariónas on the other side. Further to the left you
can distinguish the larger village of Filóti and then Chalkí, all the
way to the left and submerged in olive trees. |
You
continue into the village towards the right, walking on the largest
paved street; after a few minutes the road becomes a concrete road and
in this way you leave the village again. Some five minutes later, your
road turns into a gravel road again (note the red dots) and sometimes
you can see Apáno Kástro in front of you, just like the church of
Agios Pandeleímonas, at the bottom of the village towards the right –
you will get to this spot later on. After ten minutes you reach a wall
and on the right of this wall you find the beginning of a trail, in
between a crisscross of rocks (there are red dots). The trail continues
very clearly, all the way on the right-hand side of the wall. A couple
of hundred metres before the church you have to go through a hole in the
wall and you continue on its left-hand side (red dots!). The next part
of the trail is rather vague and you now walk on grass. At the end you
go through another hole in the wall and you thus get to the tiny little
church and the sign "Kástro Tsikalarióu", on the other side
of the wall.
[If you want to
climb up to the ruins of the Venetian Castel d' Alto (Apáno Kástro in
Greek) you can go up on the left over some difficult terrain. The
panoramic view is marvellous though.]
The Apáno Kástro. To continue the
hike, you should keep walking on the right-hand side of the same
circular wall. After about 5 minutes you have to go through a rusty gate and on the highest point of the pass you have a wonderful view on
the valley to the right, and a little later on also on Chóra, far away
in front of you. Some ten minutes later on you even get to an ancient
tiled kalderími - believe it or not - ; this trail is overgrown
sometimes, but you can continue without problems by walking on the large
kerbstones. By describing a bend the old road crosses a bridge and then
it gets to a gravel road.
The monopáti past the hill of Apáno Kástro. You follow this
gravel road straight ahead, after 20 minutes you keep to the right and
after a couple of more minutes – you can see Chóra straight ahead!
– you get to a steep descent, over some concrete. Just before the
asphalt road you can see some remnants of the old kalderími, on your
right-hand side. You thus get to the main road after about eight minutes.
You cross this road – a blue bench is very inviting to take a rest and
to marvel at the view on the beautiful valley that runs from Ano over Mési
to Káto Potamiá. You go down into the valley, on a concrete road that becomes a
concrete staircase later on. By
the name of the Odós Nikoláou Orfanoú this staircase arrives at a
little square with a fountain (this is the platía Filothéou Orfanoú). [In order to make this many-sided hike even more complex, you can
make a small detour of fifteen minutes at this point. Therefore,
you first have to go down on the left into the valley of Potamiá –
via the Odós Giampoúra. You descend for some two minutes and by
keeping to the right slightly you arrive at a marvellous spot. The path
continues in a narrow valley, along side a stream full of water (on the
19th of May 2004); there are two bridges, some benches and
lots of shadow. After this introduction to a valley that will offer you
many beautiful places later on, you return to the Orphanoú-square –
over there you continue straight ahead on the Odós Giampoúra.] On the right of the well there is a concrete slope: in this way you go up on the right of the church and you get to the asphalt road. On the opposite side you find a clear trail, which turns into a marvellously paved and broad monopáti after a couple of minutes. The trail goes up steeply, accompanied by redundant blue arrows.
The monopáti starting from Páno Potamiá. About seven minutes later you get to a concrete spot, where you keep to the left for a short while. However, the trail continues on the right straight away (there are arrows, dots and signs to the 'Koúros'). After some ten minutes all together the path continues beautifully in a kind of depression between the hills. Slightly further on there is a junction, where the trail markers and a sign send you to the left. The trail is really beautiful and it now runs between tall walls, more or less horizontally or going up gradually once in a while. Another five minutes later you get to the red letters pointing to 'Ano Potamiá', but you should continue on the open plateau, midst small fields. After three minutes you reach yet another junction: the narrow trail on the left goes directly to the koúros of Mélanes or Flerió, but you follow the clear trail on the right – where there is also a rusty sign saying 'Koúros'. You go straight ahead for about eight minutes, up and down the hills, until you describe a sharp turn to the right; then you continue along a wall with some railings on top of it. Beyond the wall on the right you can already see the spot with the trails, a bench and also the statue itself (the “stone” on the right-hand side of the bench). You thus descend for about one minute and then you get to an earth road with a water pipe. On the right you see a gate; you go through this gate and via some recently constructed trails and stairs you arrive at the statue – which is actually a korè, so the statue of a girl – amid the remnants of an old stone quarry. This statue is known as the Koúros of Potamiá.
The Koúros of Potamiá. After your visit
you walk back for some three minutes and after the gate you go straight
ahead down the hill. You walk on an earth road that is probably
being reconstructed. After
a couple of minutes you thus reach a side road, bordered with oleanders,
in a valley with streaming water. You take a left and after two minutes
you can see the entrance to the Paradise Gardens on your left-hand side.
This is just past the narrow trail that leads to the Koúros of Mélanes
or Flerió. This statue dates from the 1st part of the 6th
century BC; it was never finished because of a crack in the material.
Through a small gate on the left you can get to the gardens of the
Kondili-family – this family actually owns the land where the statue
is situated. The garden is nicely maintained and when having a seat at
the stone table under the large olive tree between the actual garden and
the koúros it really feels like paradise! You can also have a glass of
Naxos wine or taste some kítro-liquor.
The Koúros of Mélanes or Flerió. From the statue or
from the garden you go back to the road, where you take a left. Further
on you bend to the right and you thus reach the asphalt road and the
parking lot. On the left you see the gravel road to Mélanes, but a
little further and on the left of the asphalt road there is a slightly
overgrown path. This path continues underneath the asphalt road; it
passes underneath the chapel of Ipapánti and then it turns to the left.
You get to some concrete for a short while, you descend to the left and
you reach a beautiful trail again – this is next to a water mill with
lots of water and a water shoot leading to the next mill.
[Over here you
find a trail going down into the bushes on the left. It goes through the
valley, straight towards Mélanes.] Today though, you take a right here and you walk along
the water, gradually getting a very nice view on Mélanes. Five minutes
later you get to a small road. This road runs underneath the village of
Kournochóri, sometimes it is made of concrete and sometimes it is a
gravel road. After a couple of minutes you arrive at two kafenía; from
these cafés you can climb some steps and thus get to the kástro and
the robust tower of the Pýrgos della Rocca.
The Pýrgos della Rocca in Kournochóri. When relaxing on the beautiful terrace of the café O Grigoris you can call a taxi. To
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