Evaluation: Both this walk and the other hike to the monastery that follows the coast are wonderful – just like the unique walk from the lowest situated monastery of the Zoödóchos Pigí (the life-giving source) to the monastery of Panagía Kalamiótissa, located higher up. In all these cases the paths and the mountainous landscape are truly exceptional. This hike also deserves the maximum evaluation of ****.
You can also opt for a departure from the monastery, and then follow the coast line via Agii Anárgyri until just before Roúkounas; you can then return via the Kastélli and Agios Mámas – in this way you combine the highlights of two beautiful walks (see the walk Monastíri - Agii Anárgyri - Roúkounas - Kastélli - Agios Mámas - Monastíri).
[Update by Raymond on April the 29th, 2017.]

Estimated time: It takes half an hour to reach the Panagía tou Dókari, only a quarter of an hour to reach the remains of the old Anafè and another 15 minutes to get to the chapel of Agios Mámas. Finally there is the splendid stretch of 55 minutes to the monastery - a total of two hours (always in AWT). The return trip requires just as much time, so the entire walk takes about 4 hours in actual walking time. The distance for the outward and return hike together is 9,51 km, which is exactly 2 km more than the walk along the coast ...
For the total time (TWT), you have to count on the double, this means about 7-8 hours. We walked, with a long picnic break at the monastery, from 10am to 5.30pm.

Route directions: [We begin this hike on the beach of Roúkounas. If you come there by bus, you should follow the little road from the bus stop to the sea – and just before you reach the restaurant, you should continue to the right of the garden (sign “Beach”).
If you come by car, you can follow the side-road to the right – there is a road sign “Roúkounas”.
If you want to come on foot, you can follow the hike Chóra – Roúkounas…]

The beautiful beach of Roúkounas with the impressive rock of Kálamos.

(0h00) At the far end of the beach, behind the last two tamarisks, you find a clear path that goes up on the rocks. This path leads to an uneven plateau with many old cairns; from here you can enjoy a magnificent view on the beach, on the coast and on the Kálamos.

On top of the plateau with the big cairns...

[Most likely, these piles of stones used to be signals for the boats, which could moor over here, close to the ancient city of Anáfe.]

You follow the path inland, while keeping to the left of the plateau. In this way you walk on the left of some ruins until you reach a little chapel. Over there you find a white worn away path that continues around an alóni (threshing floor). It then curves to the right, where it turns into a clear path on greenish gravel.

(0h11) You reach an open slope with two hiking signs: one trail continues straight ahead (sign Monastíri + [1]) – see the other walk to the monastery, Roúkounas – Megálos Potamós – Agii Anárgyri – Monastíri and back – , but today you should take the path that goes up to the LEFT (hiking sign Kastélli 40’ + [2]). It zigzags along some white little poles. After 5 minutes, you get to a gravel road, where you continue straight ahead, until you reach the asphalt road.

(0h18) You take a right (hiking sign Kastélli + [2]), but after 3-4 minutes, past a house with a double vault, a stairs built with bricks goes up to the left (hiking sign Kastélli 20’ + [2]).

[It is of course possible to come here by car or by bus (only in Summer).]

The hiking signs at the beginning of walk [2] to the Kastélli and the monastery.

(0h22) The path goes up the slope quite obviously – so, do not go to the left - and runs along a boulder with a [2] on it. After an initial climb you get to a flat stretch, but then you have to go up again. You keep to the right at a bifurcation  (cairn) and the climb is rather steep now; after a few minutes, you go sharply to the right, in the direction of a ruin, and after only eight minutes you thus arrive at the Panagía tou Dókari, situated between a lot of wild flowers (April 23, 2011). Noteworthy is the sarcophagus in front of the chapel, with some beautiful sculpture (you notice a sphinx on the side). Unfortunately, the cover is broken, and the sarcophagus now probably serves as a drinking-trough ...

 

The simple chapel and the sarcophagus.

(0h30) On the right of the chapel, the path continues to climb (old hiking sign Ancient City + Agios Mámas) - 15 meters further there is a [2]. Pay attention: after a few minutes you have to keep to the right (cairn and red mark) and then your path goes up by describing many turns, with cairns in the turns. After 12 minutes you arrive next to a cave with a ruin, which probably served as a stable. This brings you to the old city of Anafè, with still some remains of walls. You keep going up to the left of a heavy wall (red marks) and then you will see to the left a kind of “street” between walls.

Remains of the walls of ancient Anafè...

(0h47) At the top, you veer somewhat to the left and you pass between an alóni (threshing floor) and a nice round marble basin, where you keep a little bit to the right. You go down now, while keeping to the left on a kind of terrace and you reach in this way a passage in a wall, with a [2]. You descend a little on a winding path and then a tub-shaped valley appears in front of you – and you notice the path that runs all the way around this valley. You pass below the top of the Kastélli (325 m), while curving to the right on a very clear path. In the middle of this "amphitheater" you can take a break and shelter from the wind that often blows fiercely on the sides of the Kastélli. It is really a pleasant walk on the flat monopáti, with a magnificent view over the valley and the south coast. About 15 minutes past Anafè you arrive at a gravel road (sign "Ancient City" 15’- Roúkounas 50’). A little bit further, you notice the modest (open) chapel of Agios Mámas.

(1h01) Behind the chapel there is the continuation of the path (sign Iera Odos = Sacred Road / Monastíri 1h05 + [2] and [3]. The path will now continue on the slope of the Chalépa (393-397 m). The next 20 minutes are just fantastic: the wonderful path is flat or slightly rising and it continues as on a balcony. After 15 minutes, you pass next to a building that stands on a first height, and a nice stretch now follows.

(1h23) After in total 22 minutes you arrive at a spot that is jutting out and from there you have an unobstructed view over the entire monolith of Kálamos, with the monastery on the left and the beach on the right – truly a unique panorama.

A unique panorama on the entire Kálamos!

General view of the site of the monastery.

You descend gradually and the path is mostly rather easy; after another 12 minutes the path zigzags to the left and the right, but then you continue going down slowly. This descent gets more difficult because of the loose stones, but finally you reach the end of the asphalt road without a lot of problems, - some 55 minutes after Agios Mámas. A few more minutes and then you arrive at the monastery of Zoödóchos Pigí (the life-giving source): it looks like a real fortress, built on the ruins of ancient temple walls. (2h02)

It is really pleasant to picnic to the left of the beautiful old wall, at the beginning of the path to the Kálamos. Note also the other ancient remains ...
The monastery is usually open from 11am to 1pm and from 6-8pm.

The monastery of Zoödochos Pigí and the ancient temple walls.

According to the legend, the god Apollo had rescued the ship of the Argonauts from a heavy storm, on their way back from Kolchis, and this by letting the island of Anáfi emerge from the sea. By way of thanks, the Argonauts started to build what later would become a temple. According to some inscriptions, also Zeus, Asklepios (the god of medicine) and Aphrodite were worshiped over here. A "sacred road" connected the temple with the ancient capital of Anafè, on the slopes of the Kastélli – see the beautiful walk that leads from Roúkounas via Kastélli and Agios Mámas to the monastery, or the equally beautiful walk from the monastery via Agii Anárgyri to Roúkounas, which returns to the monastery via Kastélli and Agios Mámas …
The “low monastery” was built two centuries ago, on top of the remains of the temple. The monastery was restored recently: there is a magnificent templo or ikonostási dating from 1830, a large dining hall and especially the old icons from the "high monastery", now kept in a room of the low monastery – they would date from the 12th century! On the 8th of September, an impressive religious celebration takes place over here, the "panigýri".

The ikonostási or templo in the church of Zoödóchos Pigí.

The beautiful icon of Christ.

(2h02) For the way back,  you take the gravel road from the monastery and just at the beginning of the asphalt road (sign "Agios Mámas" 1h05 / "Ancient City" 1h20) you take the path to the right – a little further it almost disappears under the wavy grass (April 23, 2011), but a trail marker [2] shows you which way to go. You now walk just below the low hill ridge on your right – just have a look on the ridge, to get a view of the sea deep down!
You climb gradually, following the main path, and only after 29 minutes there are two turns - note that you have to keep to the right at the upright stone (red mark).

(2h31) After another 5-6 minutes you have to pay attention again, because at this point you might take the wrong direction: keep to the right at the bifurcation and mind the cairn. A few minutes later, the path is even paved for a short while. Over here you have the best overall view of the Kálamos - enjoy it, because a little further you will reach the highest point.

(2h47) The Kálamos will now disappear behind you - for only a while - and the conical top of the Kastélli becomes visible, with to the right the Vouniá which is higher. Approximately 6 minutes later, the path narrowly passes to the right of a small building. From then onwards you will descend continuously for about 13 minutes.

(3h06)  At the chapel of Agios Mámas you can have some rest on the stone bench in front of it – it has been exactly 1 hour (AWT) since you left the monastery.
You continue until you reach the gravel road and to the left, next to the hiking sign (Ancient City 15’ / Roúkounas 50’ [2]), you find the continuation of the path. You climb gradually while walking around the valley; you veer to the left and during the last minutes you go up much steeper. After some curves, you reach the ancient city. You go up to the right on a terrace and you get in this way to the narrow passage in the wall [2].

The passage at the edge of the ruins of Anafè.

On the second terrace you go up again, obliquely to the right, and further on once again – in this way, you arrive between two heavy walls.
Once arrived at the top, you pass between the circular alóni and the nice, round marble basin.
You continue in the direction of the south, between two walls (red marks): keep in mind that you first should go to the highest point on the left and that only then you should you veer to the right and go down on the right side of heavy cyclopic walls – and so you will find the actual path at the edge of the ruins.

(3h22) The descent is rather steep and it meanders all the time - there are many cairns. You have to continue to descend toward the largest of the four islands (Pachía). After 12 minutes you arrive at a side-path, where you take a left, of course. A little bit later, you reach the chapel of the Panagía tou Dókari.

(3h39) With your back towards the chapel, you find the path going down on the left. You descend first towards the largest island that you see in the sea - you also have in front of you the impressive peak of the Kálamos.
After 2 minutes, you veer 90° to the left, and in this way you will arrive at the bend of the asphalt road, to the left of the chapel with the double vault. Just before you arrive, you should keep to the left, then to the right, and so you get to the road.

(3h48) You take a right here, but after 3 minutes, you take the gravel road to the left, despite the small sign that tells you that this is a private property (sign to the left Kastélli + [2] / [1] to the right). Already in the first turn left, a vague trail continues straight ahead - it follows the little white poles and runs towards the brownish plateau with the large cairns or large hopes of stones.

(3h57) You thus get without problems to the main trail that also comes from the big monastery. You take a RIGHT onto the green path, but there is immediately a bifurcation, where you go LEFT towards a chapel (cairn). You continue to a large rock with a shrub - you pass to the left of this rock and so you turn to the left around the alóni (threshing floor).

You should pass to the right of the chapel and the plateau...

You continue towards the plateau, so you pass to the right of the chapel and a ruin, then you follow the right edge of the uneven plateau.
You continue on the right edge of the plateau until you find on the right side the path going down to the beach. (4h06)
 
About 2 minutes inland, you can find the nice tavern of "O Roúkounas", which is open from May to September.
Via the gravel road running past the restaurant, you can get to the asphalt road in about 6 minutes. Over there you find the bus stop – in Summer, the last returning bus is at 7pm.

[If you wish to return on foot to Chóra, you can follow the second part of the hike Chóra – Roúkounas and back.]

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