Vourkotí - monastery of Agios Nikólaos - Apíkia
- Chóra
Evaluation: This hike brings you first to the wonderful, wild valley of the Varídi, from Vourkotí to the monastery of Agios Nikólaos. Although the return route to Apíkia mainly runs along regular roads, the marvellous trail between Apíkia and Chóra - with one of the longest kalderímia of the island - , is absolutely worthwhile. This hike deserves an evaluation of ***.
Estimated
time:
To hike from Vourkotí to the monastery takes about 1h30 in actual walking time.
From Agios Nikólaos to Apíkia you will walk for about 1h10, mostly on gravel
roads and some 15 minutes (or about 1,2 km) on asphalt. The beautiful descent
from Apíkia to Chóra will cost you another hour. This means a total of 3h40
actual walking time, which becomes 6-7 hours when taking into account some breaks
– we hiked from 9am to 4pm.
Route description: In autumn 2006 the bus to Vourkotí only ran on
Wednesdays; this means that you usually have to catch a taxi from Chóra (which
cost us 13 € in September 2006). We could get off above the village of Vourkotí,
at the restaurant O Vráchos. As happens quite often over there, there was a lot
of mist that day.
From O Vráchos
you have to take one of the two staircases going down; 1-2 minutes further they
come together again and then you have to descend for many more steps. After a
couple of minutes you thus get down, next to a water shoot. Just before the
deserted café, in the centre of Vourkotí, and definitely BEFORE the small
bridges, you should take a left, at a small house with a green barred window –
on the wall you can see a trail marker with a small red triangle.
About one
minute further you keep to the right and after a couple of metres you note
another of these trail markers and a blue dot. You go down a couple of concrete
steps, you then walk on a concrete path and after 4 minutes you keep to the
right again (further on there are some more dots). At this point you can already
see the bay of Achla far away in front of you, at the far end of the very long
valley. Some minutes later, your trail becomes a typical earthen donkey track.
It is fairly narrow and it runs between walls; you find some rubbish once in a
while and there are also thorn-bushes (some long trousers come in very handy!).
Four more minutes later you cross a dry stream and after some climbing up and
going down you arrive at a gravel road – which you follow to the right.
A little
later you go down on the right and you follow this gravel road going down for
about 14 minutes. Watch out: in a sharp turn to the right you DO NOT proceed
straight ahead on something that looks like a trail. Instead, you go further
down on the gravel road, which, after another 4 minutes, curves to the left sharply. You should then watch out once more: you describe a slight
curve to the right and then a slight curve to the left. At this point you notice blue dots and stripes on some rocks
– these trail markers indicate a trail on the right of the road between
bushes.
One
minute later you get to another trail, which you follow to the left. This is an
old and narrow rocky trail and after 2 minutes it resolutely descends into the
valley on the right – you can even hear some streaming water. Some
3 minutes later you DO NOT descend further on the right, but you go straight
ahead on a horizontal trail. Slightly further you walk between deserted stables
and terraces for a couple of minutes. About
3 minutes thereafter you get to a shaded spot between tall walls: on this
three-forked junction you notice a weathered away red arrow and a blue dot
guiding you to the right.
You
continue horizontally under some trees, you then descend by describing a few
curves and you finally continue flatly again under large oak trees. You then
have to watch out again: after 2 minutes you have to take a right at a breach in
the right-hand wall - there is a blue stripe on a stone and further down you can
also see a blue dot on a tree trunk. If you walk too far over here, the flat trail
will be blocked further down. You thus
descend on the right into the valley - you now really have to search for some blue
arrows and dots in order to be able to follow the trail meandering through the
terraces. In this way you arrive at a flat path again, which you follow to the left – so
you do not have to go further down! After another 2 minutes you reach another
shaded and rocky spot, where you take a right sharply (note the blue dot).
[Some
advice: if you do not find any blue dots anymore, you have probably taken the
wrong path on this rather confusing trajectory. You should then walk back until
you find the last visible trail marker and try all over again...]
Further
down the trail has collapsed a little and it is overgrown with thorn-bushes –
again, some long trousers and long sleeves are really advisable. The blue dots
are reassuring: this is still the right track. After 6 more minutes you take a
right once more on a shady spot, but immediately you go left again at a kind of
junction (there is a little blue arrow). A little later you get to a blue arrow
pointing to the right, crossing a black hose. You zigzag down, keeping rather to
the right, and you are guided by dots. All of a sudden you thus arrive at a
marvellous, old arched bridge.
You can
get to the streaming water by descending on the right before the bridge, or by
climbing down on the other side of the bridge – this is really a fairy-like
spot!
After crossing the bridge you go down the
staircase and for a short while you can follow a nice path. This
path zigzags up, but then it becomes a sort of sand- and gravel road – still
going up. You go up for some 16 minutes, and in this way you get high above the
valley again – half way up you do have to go through a large gate and you have
to open and close it by means of a rope. At a junction in a curve you take a
left and further down you keep to the right, in the direction of a small chapel
(some 16 minutes after the beginning of the gravel road). You follow this road
for another 10-11 minutes, first towards the white battlemented chapel, but then
curving to the left in the direction of the large building of Agios Nikólaos.
At first you do not even notice this building, because of the colour of the
natural stone it is built of.
You can enter the terrain of the monastery through two large gates. If these gates are not open, you have to take a right on the small concrete road at the junction before the first gate. You thus get to the main road. You take a left for some 30 metres and you can then enter the buildings by means of a concrete staircase. This is the second surprise of the day: you arrive at a large forecourt with a well, a big plane-tree, and four palm trees. The view over the valley is magnificent.
After entering you discover a couple of beautiful inner courts, with a nice and totally renovated church from the 11th century. The horizontal motifs in the walls remind you of some Italian churches. Inside you find frescos dating from the 15th century. The front yard is a great picnic spot.
In order
to continue in the direction of Apíkia you leave the monastery and you follow
the large gravel road going up. After 4
minutes you pass a trail that leads to the cave of the Holy Anthony. You
can spot this cave, crowned with a cross, higher up against the hill. After
two more minutes you pass the battlemented chapel. All
together you climb for about 23 minutes on this gravel road, while describing a
sharp curve to the left. You thus arrive at the asphalt road and also at a very
windy pass – sometimes, strings of fog slide over you and into the valley.
Straight
across, on the left-hand side of some debris, you can see a vague trail running
through a breach in a wall. On the other side of the wall this trail crosses the
hill crest and in this way you cut off a large bend of the road. After a couple
of minutes you thus get to the asphalt road again, via a track of pebbles; you
obviously follow this road to the right.
The road now runs through the clouds, which are blown over the hill from the faraway bay
of Chóra. After 9 minutes you pass the remarkable chapel of Agia Iríni,
striking because of its tiled roof and because it is built inside a ruin.
Through the fog you sometimes have a nice view on Chóra.
After 5-6
more minutes, just past another little chapel, you get to a turn off the right.
It is better to take a right here, in order to avoid the monotonous asphalt road.
After some 50 metres, this concrete road curves to the left and it becomes
gravel. About 8 minutes later you arrive
at a curve to the right, where you proceed straight ahead. Very
soon you thus reach the highest point of this road: from here you have a nice
view on Apíkia, situated midst green trees and bushes, on the faraway monastery
of Agia Marína and to the left still on the village of Chóra.
After 5
minutes the road slightly goes up again, but 4 minutes thereafter you have to
watch out. After 17 minutes on this gravel road and just past a shed with a blue
door and a heavy electricity pole, you get to a slight curve to the right: there
is a trail straight ahead, closed by
means of an iron gate. You take this path straight ahead and
you descend for about 3-4 minutes next to a water pipe. After 4 minutes you
reach some concrete steps; another 1-2 minutes further on you DO NOT take a
right onto the flat trail, but you keep going down on the steps – still next
to the water pipe. You pass a nice little chapel and you thus reach the asphalt
road again. You take a right, walking past the restaurant Romantica and the
small factory where the famous water of the Sáriza-well is bottled. After about
3-4 minutes on the asphalt road you get to a spot with a few benches and
lanterns. Immediately thereafter you see the tavern O Tássos and the hotel Pigí
Sáriza; the white staircase on the right leads to the famous well of Sáriza.
You walk
back the same way you came; you take a right on the asphalt road and after 10
metres (opposite the pantopolío Ta Apíkia) you go down the concrete staircase
on the left – you are now following hike no. [2] leading from Chóra to
Vourkotí via Apíkia.
After about 3 minutes you get to a T-junction: on the left, hike no. [8] goes to
the beach of Giália, but you have to descend on the right, towards the asphalt
road. You cross this road towards the right and you go further down on the
concrete slope – quite soon you follow a beautiful old path. After 2 more
minutes you cross a nice bridge, over the green valley with water coming from
the Pithára and also from Evrousés further down. This small stream is called "Potamós toon Gialioón" and it
thus leads to the beach of Giália.
On the
other side of the bridge you find an old staircase going up and after 2 minutes
you cross the asphalt road, again towards the right. Some 3 minutes later you
get to a junction where you take a left and where you keep going up. After
3 more minutes you arrive at a gravel road, which you follow straight ahead for
8 more minutes. You
now have a really nice view on the marvellous wall with the large plates of
schist – so typical for the island of Andros -, and on the valleys
of Apíkia and Steniés!
You then
reach the asphalt road, where the ancient trail continues straight ahead. From
here you also have a great panoramic view on Chóra. During the next half an
hour you follow a wonderful kalderími: for the first 8 minutes the trail
consists of steps made of stones piled up vertically. After these 8 minutes you
cross the asphalt road again and some 5-6 minutes later you cross another
asphalt road. A few minutes later the old path turns to the right (at a small
asphalt road) – the paving is interrupted twice, but besides that the old
kalderími continues for half an hour, which is quite exceptional! In Chóra you
get to some concrete, you take a right and then you go left until you reach the
waterside of Nimborió, at the bridge.
If you
have to return to the centre, you should take a left on the other side of the
bridge. Via the restaurants and a staircase of 53 steps you thus arrive at the
main street again.